Stock Average Calculator

Calculate the average cost per share across two stock purchases with different quantities and prices. Free, instant, no signup.

Formula: Average price = (Q1×P1 + Q2×P2) / (Q1 + Q2)
  • Q1, Q2 = quantities purchased
  • P1, P2 = prices per share

How to use the Stock Average Calculator

  1. Enter your values. Fill in the fields with your numbers.
  2. Calculate. Press Calculate to run the stock average calculator.
  3. Use the result. Copy the result or try a related tool next.

Why use our Stock Average Calculator

Instant results. Enter your figures and the stock average calculator returns an answer in seconds.
Free & private. Runs in your browser — no signup, and nothing is sent to a server.
Accurate. Uses standard formulas so you can rely on the numbers.

Free to use — premium coming soon

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  • No signup
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About the Stock Average Calculator

The Stock Average Calculator works out the single weighted-average price you have paid per share after buying the same stock more than once at different prices. Instead of guessing where your cost sits, you enter each purchase as a quantity and a price, and the tool returns one blended figure plus your total shares and total amount invested. This blended number is your cost basis per share. It is the line you have to clear before a position turns from a paper loss into a paper profit, which is why traders check it constantly during volatile weeks.

Reach for this tool whenever you add to an existing holding, a strategy commonly called averaging down (buying after a dip) or averaging up (buying into strength). For example, if you bought 100 shares at 50 and later add 100 shares at 40, your new average is 9,000 divided by 200, or 45.00 per share, lowering your break-even from 50 to 45. The calculator removes the mental arithmetic so you can decide before you commit fresh capital, and it instantly shows whether a planned purchase actually moves your average enough to matter.

Under the hood it uses a weighted average rather than a plain average of the prices. It multiplies each price by the shares bought at that price, sums every line into a total cost, then divides by your total share count: Average = (P1 x Q1 + P2 x Q2 + ...) / (Q1 + Q2 + ...). Weighting is the whole point, because a 500-share order carries five times the pull of a 100-share order. A simple average of the prices would be wrong any time your buy sizes differ, which they almost always do.

For accuracy, add brokerage commissions or fees into the price or amount you enter, since real cost basis includes trading costs and any reinvested dividends. Note that for individual stocks the IRS generally expects specific-lot or FIFO accounting rather than average cost at tax time, so treat this figure as a planning and break-even guide, not a tax filing. The calculation runs entirely in your browser, so your share counts, prices and portfolio details are never uploaded, stored or shared anywhere.

Frequently asked questions

How do I calculate the average price of a stock bought at different prices?

Multiply each purchase price by the number of shares bought at that price, add all those amounts to get your total cost, then divide by the total number of shares. For example, 10 shares at 50 plus 20 shares at 40 is (500 + 800) / 30 = 43.33 per share.

What does averaging down actually do to my position?

Buying more shares below your current average lowers your cost basis and your break-even price, but it also increases the total money you have committed to a falling stock. It reduces how far the price must recover to profit, while raising your overall exposure if the decline continues.

Should I include brokerage fees and commissions in the calculator?

Yes, if you want your true cost basis. Real cost basis includes commissions and trading costs, so add them into the amount or price you enter. Leaving fees out will slightly understate your real average price and break-even point.

Is this average the same number I use for capital gains tax?

Not necessarily. The average cost method is generally permitted for mutual funds and dividend reinvestment plans, while individual stocks usually use FIFO or specific-share identification for tax reporting. Use this calculator for break-even and planning, and confirm your taxable cost basis with your broker or a tax professional.

Does buying a small number of shares meaningfully change my average?

Usually not much. Because the result is weighted by quantity, a small add-on has little pull against a large existing position. The calculator lets you test a planned purchase first so you can see whether it moves your average enough to be worth the trade.

From our blog

How to Calculate Exactly How Much Gravel Your Project Needs

By the Super Simple Digital Tools Team · Updated June 2026

Ordering gravel by eye is a common and expensive mistake. Stone is heavy, sold by minimum loads, and a pain to return, so the difference between a confident estimate and a guess is real money. The good news is that the underlying calculation is simple arithmetic, and once you understand it you can sanity-check any quote a supplier gives you. This guide walks through the method the calculator uses so you can measure once, order once, and finish the job in a single delivery.

Start with three measurements taken in consistent units: the length and width of your area in feet, and the depth of gravel you want in inches. Length times width gives your area in square feet. Multiply that by your depth converted to feet (inches divided by 12) and you have cubic feet. Divide cubic feet by 27 to get cubic yards, the unit most yards price by. A 30 by 12 foot driveway laid 5 inches deep, for instance, is 360 square feet times 0.417 feet, about 150 cubic feet, or roughly 5.5 cubic yards.

To turn volume into weight, multiply cubic yards by the density of your gravel. A safe working figure is 1.4 to 1.7 tons per cubic yard; lighter rounded pea gravel sits near the bottom of that range and dense crushed stone near the top. Our 5.5 cubic yard driveway therefore lands around 8 to 9 tons. Knowing both numbers matters because some suppliers quote in yards and others in tons, and having both lets you compare prices without redoing the math at the counter.

Depth is the variable people get wrong most often, because it scales the whole job. Decorative borders and walking paths are fine at 2 to 3 inches, but a driveway that takes vehicle weight needs 4 to 6 inches and usually a separate compacted base layer of angular crushed stone underneath. If your project has layers, calculate each one separately with its own depth and add the results. Skimping on depth saves material today but leads to ruts, bare patches, and a top-up order next season.

Finally, always add an overage. Gravel settles and compacts by 20 to 30 percent once it is walked on or driven over, and a little is always lost in handling and spreading into edges. Padding your final figure by 10 to 20 percent absorbs this without leaving a wasteful surplus. Break any oddly shaped area into rectangles before you measure, double-check your depth against the use case, and you will have a number you can hand to a supplier with confidence.

  • Measure depth in inches and let the calculator convert it; entering 6 inches as 6 feet is the single most common error and inflates your order twelvefold.
  • For driveways, calculate the crushed-stone base layer and the surface layer as two separate jobs, since they have different depths and densities.
  • Get the exact tons-per-cubic-yard density from your supplier before a large order; the rock type can swing your weight estimate by several tons.
  • Add roughly 15 percent overage on small jobs and 10 percent on loads over 5 tons to cover compaction and spreading loss without overbuying.

Read the full guide →

Tool by the Super Simple Digital Tools Team. Reviewed by our editorial team. Free to use, no signup required.

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