Fuel Cost Calculator

Estimate the fuel cost of a trip from distance, fuel economy and fuel price. Free, instant, no signup.

miles
mpg
per gallon
Formula: Cost = distance ÷ mpg × price per gallon

How to use the Fuel Cost Calculator

  1. Enter your values. Fill in the fields with your numbers.
  2. Calculate. Press Calculate to run the fuel cost calculator.
  3. Use the result. Copy the result or try a related tool next.

Why use our Fuel Cost Calculator

Instant results. Enter your figures and the fuel cost calculator returns an answer in seconds.
Free & private. Runs in your browser — no signup, and nothing is sent to a server.
Accurate. Uses standard formulas so you can rely on the numbers.

Free to use — premium coming soon

FREE
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  • Instant results
  • No signup
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About the Fuel Cost Calculator

The Fuel Cost Calculator turns three numbers you already know into the dollar figure you actually care about: how much a trip will cost in gas. Enter the distance you plan to drive, your vehicle's fuel economy, and the current price of fuel, and the tool returns the total cost plus the volume of fuel you will burn. It works for a single commute, a cross-country road trip, or a back-of-envelope comparison between two cars, and it accepts either US units (miles and miles per gallon) or metric units (kilometres and litres per 100 km), so you are not forced to convert anything by hand.

Reach for this calculator any time fuel is a budget line rather than an afterthought. Road-trippers use it to split gas money fairly between passengers, gig drivers and commuters use it to see what a daily route really costs over a month, and anyone shopping for a car uses it to translate an abstract MPG rating into yearly fuel spend. It is also handy for deciding whether a cheaper station a few miles away is worth the detour, or whether driving versus flying makes more financial sense once you price the tank.

Under the hood the math is simple and transparent. In US units the tool computes gallons needed as distance divided by MPG, then multiplies by price per gallon: a 300-mile trip at 25 MPG and $3.80 a gallon needs 12 gallons and costs $45.60. In metric it uses litres equals distance times consumption divided by 100. Because MPG and litres-per-100km are inverse measures (higher MPG is better, lower L/100km is better), the calculator keeps the two systems straight for you and shows both the fuel quantity and the cost so you can sanity-check the result.

Accuracy depends mostly on the fuel-economy figure you feed in, and that is the one number worth getting right. Manufacturer or EPA ratings are lab estimates; real-world economy swings 20% or more between stop-start city driving and steady highway cruising, and is further hit by cold weather, roof loads, and heavy traffic. For the closest estimate, use your own averaged MPG from the last few tanks rather than the sticker number. Everything runs entirely in your browser, so the distances, prices, and vehicle details you enter are never uploaded or stored on a server.

Frequently asked questions

How do I calculate the fuel cost of a trip?

Divide the trip distance by your vehicle's MPG to get the gallons needed, then multiply by the price per gallon. For example, 300 miles divided by 25 MPG equals 12 gallons, and 12 gallons times $3.80 equals $45.60. The calculator does this automatically once you enter distance, fuel economy, and price.

Should I use the EPA/manufacturer MPG or my real MPG?

Use your own real-world MPG for the most accurate estimate. Lab ratings are optimistic, and actual economy can differ by 20% or more depending on city versus highway driving, weather, and load. Track the miles you drove against the gallons you pumped over a few tanks to find your true average.

How do MPG and litres per 100 km relate?

They are inverse measures of the same thing: with MPG a higher number is more efficient, while with L/100km a lower number is more efficient. A quick conversion is 235 divided by US MPG equals L/100km, so 35 MPG is about 6.7 L/100km.

Does the calculator work for UK (imperial) gallons?

Enter your figures in whichever unit system you select. Note that an imperial gallon is about 20% larger than a US gallon, so a UK rating of 50 MPG is roughly 42 MPG in US terms. Make sure your MPG and your fuel price use the same gallon to avoid a skewed result.

Can it estimate a round trip or a whole month of commuting?

Yes. For a round trip, enter the total distance there and back. For ongoing costs, multiply your daily route distance by the number of commuting days, or enter that total distance directly to see the monthly fuel spend.

From our blog

How to Estimate Tile Quantity Without Running Short (or Overbuying)

By the Super Simple Digital Tools Team · Updated June 2026

The single most common tiling mistake is buying exactly the square footage of the room. Tiles break, edges need cutting, and the very last box you bought from a batch may be impossible to match in two years. Getting the quantity right is less about complicated math and more about measuring carefully and choosing a waste percentage that fits how you plan to lay the tile.

Start with an accurate area. Measure the length and width of the floor or wall and multiply them; a 10 by 12 foot floor is 120 square feet. Rooms are rarely perfect rectangles, so divide an L-shaped space into two or three boxes, measure each, and add the totals. Measuring in inches is fine too, just divide the final product by 144 to convert to square feet. Write down each section so you can recheck the sum.

Next, find how much area one tile covers. Multiply the tile's two dimensions and convert to the same unit as your room. A 12 by 12 inch tile is one square foot; a 12 by 24 is two; a 4 by 12 subway tile is one third of a square foot. Dividing your room area by the per-tile area gives the bare count, the number you would need if every tile went down whole with zero loss, which never happens in practice.

Now apply waste. The pattern drives this more than the room. A simple straight grid wastes the least because offcuts from one wall often fit the opposite wall, so 5 to 10 percent is enough. Offset and brick bonds need 10 to 15 percent. Diagonals and herringbone are the expensive layouts: their angled cuts seldom fit anywhere else, so plan for 15 to 20 percent and edge higher for L-shaped rooms or anything you tile around, like a bath or chimney breast.

Finish by converting to whole boxes and adding a small repair reserve. Tile is sold by the box, so round your padded number up to the next full box, and consider keeping a few extra pieces aside. Future cracks, drilled holes, or remodels are far easier when you have matching tile on the shelf than when you are hunting for a discontinued batch. A few dollars of overage now is cheaper than a stalled project later.

  • Buy all your tile in one order so every box comes from the same production batch and the color and finish match exactly.
  • For diagonal or herringbone layouts, start your waste estimate at 15 percent and add 2 to 3 percent for each obstacle like an alcove, pipe run, or curved wall.
  • Compare two tile formats in the calculator before buying; a rectangular tile often divides into an awkward room with less waste than a large square one.
  • Keep at least a half box of spares after the job, labeled with the room name, so future repairs use an identical tile instead of a guess.

Read the full guide →

Tool by the Super Simple Digital Tools Team. Reviewed by our editorial team. Free to use, no signup required.

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