Power Converter

Convert between power units instantly — pick any from and to unit.

Free to use — premium coming soon

FREE
  • All units
  • Adjustable decimals
  • Instant results
PREMIUM
  • Remove ads
  • Bulk conversions
  • Conversion history

About the Power Converter

The Power Converter turns a single rate of energy flow into any unit you need: watts, kilowatts, megawatts, mechanical horsepower, metric horsepower (PS), and BTU per hour. Power measures how fast energy moves or work gets done, not how much energy is stored, so every figure on this page describes the same quantity expressed in a different scale. One kilowatt equals 1,000 watts, one mechanical horsepower equals 745.7 watts, metric horsepower equals 735.5 watts, and one kilowatt equals roughly 3,412 BTU per hour. Enter a number once and read it across all of them instantly.

Reach for this converter whenever a spec sheet, motor nameplate, or appliance label uses a unit you do not think in. North American cars and motors are rated in mechanical horsepower, European cars list kilowatts and metric horsepower (PS or CV), and air conditioners and furnaces in the US quote BTU per hour while the rest of the world uses kilowatts. A 1 HP pump sold abroad becomes a 0.746 kW pump on its label, and a 12,000 BTU/hr air conditioner is about 3.5 kW of cooling. Converting lets you compare two devices that were never measured the same way.

Under the hood the tool routes every value through watts as a common base, then multiplies by the exact factor for your target unit. Watts to BTU/hr multiplies by 3.412142; watts to mechanical horsepower divides by 745.699872; watts to metric horsepower divides by 735.49875. Because these are fixed, internationally standardized ratios rather than approximations, the math is exact to the precision you enter. The one thing to watch is which horsepower you mean: mechanical HP and metric PS differ by about 1.4 percent, so a 100 HP engine is roughly 101.4 PS, and mixing the two is the most common source of error.

All conversions run entirely in your browser using these standard factors, so nothing you type is uploaded, stored, or logged on a server. That keeps the tool fast and keeps your figures private, whether you are sizing a generator, checking an engine swap, or specifying an industrial motor. For most everyday work the result is exact; for precision engineering, just keep enough decimal places and confirm whether a source quotes mechanical horsepower, metric horsepower, or the older boiler horsepower, which is a different and much larger unit.

Frequently asked questions

How many watts are in one horsepower?

One mechanical (imperial) horsepower equals 745.7 watts, so it is about 0.7457 kilowatts. Metric horsepower (PS or CV) is slightly smaller at 735.5 watts, or about 0.7355 kilowatts.

What is the difference between mechanical horsepower and metric horsepower (PS)?

Mechanical horsepower is defined as 550 foot-pounds per second, equal to 745.7 W, and is used in the US and UK. Metric horsepower (PS or CV) is defined as 75 kgf-metres per second, equal to 735.5 W, and is used in Europe and much of Asia. They differ by roughly 1.4 percent.

How do I convert BTU/hr to kilowatts?

Divide BTU per hour by 3,412.14 to get kilowatts, or multiply by 0.00029307. For example, a 12,000 BTU/hr air conditioner is about 3.52 kW of cooling capacity.

How do I convert kilowatts to horsepower?

Multiply kilowatts by 1.34102 to get mechanical horsepower, or by 1.35962 to get metric horsepower (PS). So 75 kW equals about 100.6 mechanical HP, or about 102 PS.

Is power the same as energy, and can this tool convert kWh?

No. Power is the rate of energy use (watts, horsepower, BTU/hr), while energy is the total amount used over time (kilowatt-hours, joules, BTU). This converter handles power units only; to get energy you would multiply a power figure by the number of hours it runs.

From our blog

How to Read a Currency Converter (and Not Get Surprised at Checkout)

By the Super Simple Digital Tools Team · Updated June 2026

A currency converter answers a deceptively simple question: how much is this worth in my money? Behind that answer sits one exchange rate and one multiplication. The skill is not in running the calculation, which the tool does instantly, but in interpreting the number. Knowing what rate you are looking at, how fresh it is, and what costs sit between that rate and your wallet is the difference between a confident decision and an unpleasant surprise on your statement.

Start with the rate itself. Most converters quote the mid-market rate, the exact midpoint between the global buy and sell prices for a pair. It is the cleanest, most neutral figure available and the same one you will see quoted on major financial news outlets. Crucially, it is a reference, not a retail offer. The mid-market rate is the rate banks use among themselves; as a consumer you are quoted a rate built on top of it, with a margin added. So the converter tells you the fair baseline, and your job is to compare what you are actually offered against that baseline.

Timing matters more than people expect. Foreign-exchange markets run around the clock on weekdays, so a pair can drift between the moment you check a price and the moment you pay. Over minutes the movement is usually tiny, but across days, or during volatile news, it can be meaningful for large amounts. On weekends the figure you see is typically frozen near Friday's close because the markets are shut, which is worth remembering if you convert on a Sunday and transact on a Monday.

When the stakes are higher, such as sending money abroad or making a big purchase, separate the rate from the fees. A provider can advertise a tempting rate and recover its margin through a fixed fee, or offer no fee while quoting a weaker rate. The honest comparison is the total amount that lands in the recipient's currency after everything. Use the converter to compute the mid-market benchmark for your amount, then measure each provider's all-in result against it. The smaller the gap, the better the deal.

Finally, watch out for hidden conversion at the point of sale. When you pay by card abroad, you are sometimes offered the choice to be charged in your home currency instead of the local one. That convenience usually carries a poor built-in rate, so paying in the local currency and letting your own bank convert is often cheaper. A quick check in the converter beforehand gives you a reference figure to judge whether the offered amount is reasonable.

  • Treat the result as the mid-market benchmark; assume your bank, card, or transfer service will land slightly below it after their margin.
  • For big transfers, compare providers on the final amount delivered, not the headline rate, since fixed fees can hide a weak rate.
  • Convert close to when you will transact, and remember weekend rates are usually frozen near Friday's close.
  • When paying by card abroad, choose to be billed in the local currency and check the converter first to spot a bad point-of-sale rate.

Read the full guide →

Tool by the Super Simple Digital Tools Team. Reviewed by our editorial team. Free to use, no signup required.

Related tools