Mortgage Refinance Calculator

Compare your current and new mortgage rates to see your monthly saving and total saving over the remaining loan term. Free, instant, no signup.

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Formula: Monthly saving = PMT(currentRate) − PMT(newRate)
  • PMT = monthly payment using standard amortization formula

How to use the Mortgage Refinance Calculator

  1. Enter your values. Fill in the fields with your numbers.
  2. Calculate. Press Calculate to run the mortgage refinance calculator.
  3. Use the result. Copy the result or try a related tool next.

Why use our Mortgage Refinance Calculator

Instant results. Enter your figures and the mortgage refinance calculator returns an answer in seconds.
Free & private. Runs in your browser — no signup, and nothing is sent to a server.
Accurate. Uses standard formulas so you can rely on the numbers.

Free to use — premium coming soon

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About the Mortgage Refinance Calculator

The Mortgage Refinance Calculator helps you decide whether replacing your current home loan with a new one is actually worth it. You enter your remaining balance, current rate and remaining term, then the new rate, new term, and estimated closing costs. The calculator compares your existing monthly payment against the payment on the proposed loan, shows the monthly difference, and most importantly tells you your break-even point: how many months of savings it takes to recover the upfront cost of refinancing. That single number is what separates a smart refinance from an expensive mistake.

Reach for this tool any time rates have dropped, your credit score has improved, or you want to switch from a 30-year to a 15-year term (or vice versa). A common rule of thumb is that refinancing starts to make sense when you can cut your rate by roughly half to three-quarters of a percentage point, but the real test is your break-even timeline. If you plan to sell or refinance again before you break even, you would lose money on the deal. If you intend to keep the loan well past that point, every month afterward is genuine savings.

Under the hood it uses the standard amortized payment formula, M = P x r x (1 + r)^n / ((1 + r)^n - 1), where P is the principal, r is the monthly interest rate, and n is the number of monthly payments. It calculates this twice, once for your old loan and once for the new one, then derives monthly savings and divides your total closing costs by that figure to find the break-even month. Closing costs typically run 2% to 6% of the loan principal, so the calculator lets you adjust that input to match a real lender quote rather than a guess.

All math runs in your browser, so the balance, rate, and cost figures you type never leave your device or get stored on a server. Treat the output as a clear apples-to-apples estimate, not a lender commitment: it does not account for property taxes, insurance escrow, points buy-downs, PMI changes, or the fact that resetting a 30-year clock can raise your lifetime interest even when the monthly payment falls. Always confirm the actual rate, term, and itemized fees with a Loan Estimate from your lender before signing.

Frequently asked questions

How do I calculate my refinance break-even point?

Divide your total closing costs by your monthly payment savings. For example, $6,000 in costs divided by $200 saved per month equals a 30-month break-even point, meaning it takes two and a half years before the refinance pays for itself.

Is refinancing worth it if it lowers my monthly payment?

Not always. A lower payment can simply mean you reset to a longer term and pay more total interest over the life of the loan. The refinance is worth it when you will keep the loan past the break-even point and the lifetime interest works in your favor.

What closing cost figure should I enter?

Closing costs usually total 2% to 6% of the loan amount, covering origination, appraisal, title, and recording fees. For the most accurate result, enter the figure from a lender's Loan Estimate rather than a percentage guess.

Why does refinancing sometimes cost more even at a lower rate?

If you have already paid down years of a 30-year loan and refinance into a fresh 30-year term, you restart the amortization clock. The lower rate may shrink the monthly payment while still increasing total interest because you are now paying over more years.

Does a no-closing-cost refinance change the break-even point?

Yes. With no upfront fees there is essentially nothing to recoup, so the break-even point disappears, but the lender typically offsets this with a slightly higher rate. Enter $0 closing costs and the new higher rate to compare the trade-off honestly.

From our blog

How a Retirement Calculator Turns Your Monthly Savings Into a Nest Egg

By the Super Simple Digital Tools Team · Updated June 2026

Most people approach retirement with a feeling rather than a figure: a sense that they should be saving more, without knowing the target. A retirement calculator replaces that feeling with arithmetic. By taking your current balance, your monthly contributions, your time horizon, and an expected return, it shows the single number that matters most, the size of the nest egg you are on course to build, and the income it could produce. Seeing that number is what makes the abstract idea of retirement actionable today.

The engine has two halves. The money you already have grows on its own through compounding, doubling over time as returns earn returns. Layered on top is the stream of future contributions, each deposit compounding for slightly fewer years than the one before it. The calculator computes both, the future value of your lump sum and the future value of your monthly annuity, and sums them. This is why starting early matters so much: an extra decade of compounding on the same contribution can easily outweigh a much larger contribution started late.

Converting a balance into a paycheck is the second job. The most common method is the 4% rule, which suggests that withdrawing about 4% of your starting balance in the first year, then adjusting for inflation, has historically lasted roughly 30 years. Flip it around and you get the 25x rule: multiply the income you want by 25 to find the balance you need. Both describe the same relationship and give you a fast, defensible target to aim the rest of your plan at.

Assumptions are where projections live or die. A return that is one point too high or an inflation estimate that is one point too low quietly inflates the result by a huge margin over decades. The honest fix is to model a range. Group your pessimistic assumptions together, lower returns, higher inflation, a longer life, to get a cautious figure, then group the optimistic ones for a best case. If your savings plan still looks healthy under the cautious scenario, you have built in real margin for error.

Finally, remember what the tool does not see. It does not know about Social Security, a pension, an inheritance, a future raise, or the year you take a sabbatical. The cleanest way to use it is to net out guaranteed income first, then ask the calculator to size only the portion your own savings must fund. Used that way, it becomes a steering wheel you check once or twice a year, adjusting your contribution or retirement age as the numbers and your life evolve.

  • Enter a real (inflation-adjusted) return such as 4% instead of a nominal 7% so your projected nest egg is expressed in today's spending power.
  • Run the calculation twice, once with cautious assumptions and once optimistic, and plan around the gap rather than a single point estimate.
  • Before sizing your savings, subtract expected Social Security and any pension from your annual spending need so the calculator only fills the remaining gap.
  • Nudge your monthly contribution up by a small amount and re-run it; you will see how even modest increases compound into a noticeably larger balance over decades.

Read the full guide →

Tool by the Super Simple Digital Tools Team. Reviewed by our editorial team. Free to use, no signup required.

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