Ohm's Law Calculator

Solve Ohm's law — enter any two of voltage, current and resistance to find the third, plus power. Free, instant, no signup.

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A
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Formula: V = I × R • P = V × I
  • V = voltage (volts)
  • I = current (amps)
  • R = resistance (ohms)
  • P = power (watts)

How to use the Ohm's Law Calculator

  1. Enter your values. Fill in the fields with your numbers.
  2. Calculate. Press Calculate to run the ohm's law calculator.
  3. Use the result. Copy the result or try a related tool next.

Why use our Ohm's Law Calculator

Instant results. Enter your figures and the ohm's law calculator returns an answer in seconds.
Free & private. Runs in your browser — no signup, and nothing is sent to a server.
Accurate. Uses standard formulas so you can rely on the numbers.

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About the Ohm's Law Calculator

The Ohm's Law Calculator solves the relationship between voltage (V, in volts), current (I, in amps), resistance (R, in ohms) and power (P, in watts) in a DC resistive circuit. Ohm's Law itself states V = I x R, while Watt's Law adds P = V x I. Combining the two gives a set of twelve derived formulas, so once you supply any two of the four quantities the tool can solve for the remaining two. Enter two known values, leave the rest blank, and it computes the unknowns instantly without any algebra on your part.

Reach for this calculator whenever you are sizing or troubleshooting a simple electrical circuit. Common moments include choosing a current-limiting resistor for an LED, checking that a resistor's wattage rating won't be exceeded, working out the current a 12 V appliance will draw, or verifying a meter reading against expected values. Students use it to check physics and electronics homework; hobbyists use it on Arduino, 3D-printer and audio projects; and electricians use it for quick voltage-drop and load sanity checks. Because every result is mutually consistent, it doubles as a fast way to catch a mis-wired or mis-measured circuit.

Under the hood the tool picks the correct formula from your two inputs. If you give voltage and resistance it uses I = V / R; with current and resistance it uses V = I x R; with voltage and current it returns R = V / I and P = V x I. Power-based cases use the algebraic rearrangements, such as P = I squared x R, P = V squared / R, R = V squared / P and I = square root of (P / R). Keep your inputs in base units (volts, amps, ohms, watts) so milliamps become 0.05 A and kilo-ohms become 1000, and the outputs will be in the same base units.

Results are only as accurate as the assumptions behind Ohm's Law: it holds for linear, ohmic components like resistors and is intended for steady DC. For AC circuits with capacitors or inductors you must substitute impedance (Z) for resistance and use RMS values, and non-ohmic parts such as diodes and transistors won't follow a single straight-line ratio. Treat the wattage figure as a minimum and choose a component rated well above it. The calculation runs entirely in your browser using plain arithmetic, so the numbers you type are never uploaded or stored on a server.

Frequently asked questions

How many values do I need to enter?

Exactly two of the four quantities, voltage, current, resistance or power. From any valid pair the calculator derives the other two using Ohm's Law and Watt's Law.

What are the core formulas it uses?

The two roots are V = I x R (Ohm's Law) and P = V x I (Watt's Law). Everything else, such as I = V / R, R = V / I, P = I squared x R and R = V squared / P, is derived from those two.

Does Ohm's Law work for AC circuits?

Only with adjustments. For AC you replace resistance with impedance (Z), which accounts for capacitors and inductors, and use RMS voltage and current. This calculator assumes a simple DC resistive circuit.

How do I calculate the resistor wattage I need?

The power result (in watts) is the heat the resistor must dissipate. Pick a resistor rated comfortably above that figure, commonly at least double, so it doesn't overheat or fail.

Why are my numbers off by a factor of 1000?

Almost always a unit mismatch. Convert before entering: milliamps to amps (divide by 1000), kilo-ohms to ohms (multiply by 1000), and milliwatts to watts. The tool treats all inputs as base units.

From our blog

How to Calculate Mulch the Right Way (and Avoid the Volcano Mistake)

By the Super Simple Digital Tools Team · Updated June 2026

Buying mulch goes wrong in one of two ways: you order by guesswork and come up short, or you over-order and watch the surplus turn into a soggy, weed-seeded pile. The fix is to think in volume, not area. Mulch is sold by the cubic yard or by the bagged cubic foot, and the only way to land on the right number is to combine how much ground you are covering with how thick you want the layer. That single extra variable, depth, is where most rough estimates fall apart.

Start by measuring your beds in feet. For rectangles, length times width gives square footage. For circular tree rings, measure the radius and use 3.14 times radius times radius. Odd, curving borders are easiest to handle by breaking them into a few simpler rectangles and circles, measuring each, and adding the pieces together. Jot these figures down before you open the calculator so you are entering real measurements rather than eyeballed ones, since the accuracy of the result depends entirely on the accuracy of what goes in.

Next, settle on depth. Two to three inches is the sweet spot for most flower beds and borders, deep enough to block light from weed seeds and slow evaporation, shallow enough to let water and air through. For brand new beds or heavily weedy ground you might go a little thicker, but more is not always better. When you have area and depth, the conversion is simply area in square feet times depth in inches divided by 324 to get cubic yards, the same calculation the tool runs instantly.

Once you have a cubic yard figure, decide how to buy. Bulk delivery is cheaper per unit and worth it past roughly two or three yards, while bags suit small jobs and tight access. To switch between them, remember a cubic yard equals 27 cubic feet, so divide your cubic feet total by the bag size, 2 or 1.5 cubic feet, to count bags. Always round the final order up a notch to cover settling and the inevitable uneven spots in any real garden.

Finally, spread it well. Keep mulch pulled back a few inches from tree trunks and plant stems in a flat ring or donut shape, never heaped against the bark in a cone. Piling mulch into a volcano against a trunk traps moisture, invites rot and rodents, and can slowly girdle and kill an established tree. Getting both the quantity and the placement right is what turns a weekend of hauling bags into a bed that actually thrives.

  • Use the 324 rule as a quick sanity check: one yard covers about 162 square feet at the common 2 inch depth, so a 160 square foot bed needs roughly one yard.
  • For tree rings, measure the radius, not the diameter, and use area equals 3.14 times radius squared before entering it as your square footage.
  • Switch to bulk delivery once you pass two to three cubic yards, since 14 bags per yard quickly costs more and means far more lifting.
  • Keep mulch 2 to 3 inches deep and a few inches clear of trunks and stems, and top up only once existing mulch drops below about 2 inches.

Read the full guide →

Tool by the Super Simple Digital Tools Team. Reviewed by our editorial team. Free to use, no signup required.

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