Savings Goal Calculator

Find out how much to save each month to reach a savings goal within a set number of years. Free, instant, no signup.

%
years
Formula: Monthly = (Goal − FV_initial) × r / ((1+r)^n − 1)
  • r = monthly interest rate
  • n = months to goal

How to use the Savings Goal Calculator

  1. Enter your values. Fill in the fields with your numbers.
  2. Calculate. Press Calculate to run the savings goal calculator.
  3. Use the result. Copy the result or try a related tool next.

Why use our Savings Goal Calculator

Instant results. Enter your figures and the savings goal calculator returns an answer in seconds.
Free & private. Runs in your browser — no signup, and nothing is sent to a server.
Accurate. Uses standard formulas so you can rely on the numbers.

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About the Savings Goal Calculator

The Savings Goal Calculator works backwards from a target amount to tell you how much you need to set aside each month to hit it on time. Instead of guessing whether $200 a month is enough for a $20,000 down payment, you enter the goal, your current balance, your timeline, and an expected interest rate, and the tool returns the required monthly contribution. It flips the usual savings question on its head: rather than asking how much you will have, it answers how much you must commit, which makes it far easier to turn a vague intention into a concrete monthly number.

Reach for this calculator whenever a savings target has a deadline attached: an emergency fund within 18 months, a wedding in two years, a house deposit in five, or a holiday next summer. It is most useful at the planning stage, when you are deciding whether a goal is realistic or whether the timeline needs stretching. Because it factors in interest, it also shows the difference between parking money in a current account at near-zero return and a high-yield savings account or CD, helping you judge where the goal should actually live.

Under the hood the tool solves the future value of an annuity formula for the unknown payment. The required monthly contribution is PMT = (FV - PV x (1+r)^n) x r / ((1+r)^n - 1), where FV is your goal, PV is your starting balance, r is the periodic interest rate (annual rate divided by the number of periods per year), and n is the total number of periods. The starting balance grows on its own and is subtracted from the target first, so the calculator only asks you to fund the remaining gap, then spreads that gap evenly across every month.

Treat the result as a well-grounded estimate rather than a guarantee. Real returns vary, variable savings rates change, and compounding assumptions are simplified, so the figure shifts if your actual interest rate differs from the one you entered. This calculator runs entirely in your browser, so the amounts, goals, and balances you type are never sent to a server or stored. Nothing is saved between visits, which means you can model sensitive numbers freely and just re-enter them next time you want to revisit the plan.

Frequently asked questions

How does the calculator decide my monthly amount?

It subtracts the future value of your current balance from your goal, then uses the future value of an annuity formula to spread the remaining gap across every month until your deadline, accounting for interest earned along the way. The output is the level monthly deposit needed to land exactly on your target.

What if I don't earn any interest on my savings?

Set the interest rate to 0% and the maths simplifies to your goal minus your starting balance, divided by the number of months. That gives the plain monthly amount with no compounding help, which is realistic for money kept in a standard current account.

The monthly number is higher than I can afford. What can I do?

Extend your timeline, lower the goal, or increase your starting balance, and the required monthly contribution drops. Many people also move the money to a higher-yield account so interest covers more of the gap, or start smaller and raise the amount as income grows.

How much of my income should go toward the goal?

A common guideline is the 50/30/20 rule, which suggests directing about 20% of after-tax income to savings and debt repayment. The calculator tells you the dollar amount your goal needs; comparing it to that 20% shows whether the target fits your budget.

Does the calculator account for inflation or taxes?

No. It assumes a fixed interest rate and ignores inflation and any tax on interest, so the figure is in today's terms. If your goal cost will rise over time, build in a buffer by raising the target amount slightly before you calculate.

From our blog

How to Use an IRR Calculator to Judge an Investment (Without Getting Fooled)

By the Super Simple Digital Tools Team · Updated June 2026

Internal rate of return compresses an entire stream of uneven cash flows into a single annualized percentage, which is exactly why investors love it and why it is easy to misread. The number answers one precise question: what constant yearly rate would make the present value of everything you receive equal to everything you put in? An IRR Calculator solves that equation for you, but the percentage is only as trustworthy as the cash-flow assumptions you feed it and the way you interpret what comes back.

Start by laying out your cash flows in order. Period zero is almost always your initial investment entered as a negative figure, because that money leaves your account today. Each following period holds the net amount for that interval, an inflow if you collected rent, a dividend, or a sale; an outflow if you spent on a renovation or a capital call. Keep the time steps equal and consistent: if you enter annual numbers you get an annual IRR, and if you enter monthly numbers the result is a monthly rate that must be multiplied out to compare with yearly returns.

The single most important thing to understand is that IRR is exquisitely sensitive to timing. Money received sooner is worth far more to the calculation than the same money received later, so a deal that returns capital early will post a higher IRR than one with an identical total profit paid out at the end. This is why shorter holding periods tend to flatter IRR and why two deals with the same headline gain can score very differently. Never compare IRRs without also noting how long the money is actually at work.

There are two traps to watch. First, standard IRR quietly assumes you can reinvest every interim payout at the IRR rate itself, which on a 30%+ deal is rarely realistic and inflates the figure; the modified IRR (MIRR) fixes this by letting you set a sensible reinvestment rate. Second, when cash flows flip between positive and negative more than once, the equation can have several mathematically valid answers, the multiple-IRR problem, or none at all. In those situations the IRR is not meaningful on its own.

The fix is simple: treat IRR as one lens, not the verdict. Pair it with net present value computed at your own required return, and for property deals add cash-on-cash return and the equity multiple, which tell you how much total cash a dollar actually produced. If IRR and NPV disagree on which of two competing projects to pick, follow NPV. Used this way, the IRR Calculator becomes a fast, honest screen rather than a number you can be talked into trusting blindly.

  • Always enter period zero (your initial investment) as a negative number, or the calculator will solve the wrong equation and may return no IRR.
  • Keep every period the same length; mixing annual and monthly figures produces a rate that means nothing until you annualize it.
  • If your cash flows change sign more than once, ignore the raw IRR and check NPV at your hurdle rate or switch to MIRR instead.
  • Compare IRR against your cost of capital or required return, a high IRR is only worthwhile if it clears that hurdle.

Read the full guide →

Tool by the Super Simple Digital Tools Team. Reviewed by our editorial team. Free to use, no signup required.

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