JPG to PDF

Convert JPG and PNG images into a single PDF — fit pages to each image or to A4. Free, in your browser.

Images become PDF pages in the order shown — all in your browser.

How to use the JPG to PDF

  1. Add images. Select the JPG or PNG files you want to convert.
  2. Pick page size. Fit the page to each image, or use A4.
  3. Convert. Download your images as a single PDF.

Why use our JPG to PDF

Many images, one PDF. Combine a whole batch of photos or scans into a single document in order.
JPG and PNG. Mix both formats freely — each becomes a page in your PDF.
Choose the page size. Fit each page to its image, or place images centred on A4.

Free to use — premium coming soon

FREE
  • JPG & PNG to PDF
  • Multiple images
  • Fit or A4 pages
  • 100% private
PREMIUM
  • Remove ads
  • Custom page sizes & margins
  • Batch folders to PDF

About the JPG to PDF

JPG to PDF turns one or more image files into a single PDF document right in your browser. Drop in a phone photo of a receipt, a scanned contract, or a folder of portfolio shots, and the tool stitches them into a multi-page PDF in the order you arrange them. JPG and JPEG are the same format (the names are interchangeable), and PNG works too, so screenshots and graphics convert just as cleanly. The result is one tidy file that opens identically on any phone, laptop, or printer instead of a scattered pile of separate images.

Reach for this tool whenever an image needs to behave like a document. Expense reports want receipts as PDFs, job and visa applications often demand IDs or certificates in PDF, and combining several scanned pages into one file keeps records together for long-term storage. A PDF also locks the layout: the recipient sees the pages in your chosen sequence at a fixed size, which a loose set of JPGs can't guarantee. For sharing, a single PDF is easier to email, archive, and print than ten individual attachments.

You control how each image sits on the page through two layout modes. Fit-to-image makes every page exactly the size of its image, leaving no white margins, which suits photo collections and portfolios. A4 mode places each image, scaled and centered, onto a standard 210 by 297 mm page so the file prints correctly on any office printer worldwide without rescaling. You can reorder pages by dragging before exporting, and mix portrait and landscape images in the same document. The tool assembles everything client-side and hands you the finished PDF to download.

On accuracy and privacy: your images are read and converted entirely in your browser, so nothing is uploaded to a server. Each picture is embedded at its existing resolution, meaning the conversion adds no extra compression or quality loss. Keep in mind that JPG is already a lossy format, so the PDF preserves whatever quality the source file has rather than restoring detail the original lost. For sharp A4 prints, start with images near 2480 by 3508 pixels (300 DPI); lower-resolution photos may look soft when stretched to fill a full page.

Frequently asked questions

Can I combine several JPGs into one PDF?

Yes. Add as many JPG, JPEG, or PNG files as you like, drag them into the order you want, and the tool exports them as a single multi-page PDF with one image per page.

Does converting JPG to PDF reduce image quality?

No additional compression is applied; each image is embedded at its original resolution. Because JPG is already a lossy format, the PDF preserves the existing quality rather than improving it.

What is the difference between fit-to-image and A4 page size?

Fit-to-image makes each page match the image's exact dimensions with no margins, ideal for photos and portfolios. A4 places the image on a standard 210 by 297 mm page, which prints reliably on any printer.

Are my images uploaded to a server?

No. The conversion runs entirely in your browser, so your photos and documents never leave your device, which is useful for IDs, receipts, and confidential scans.

Is JPG the same as JPEG, and can I convert PNG too?

JPG and JPEG are identical, just different file extensions for the same format. PNG images are also supported, so screenshots and graphics convert the same way.

From our blog

How to Compress Images Without Wrecking the Quality

By the Super Simple Digital Tools Team · Updated June 2026

Most oversized images are a side effect of how cameras and phones save photos: they capture far more detail and resolution than any screen, email, or web page actually needs. A modern phone can produce a 6 to 12 MB photo, yet the same image displayed at full screen needs only a fraction of that. Compression closes the gap by re-encoding the file so it carries the detail you can see and drops the data you cannot, which is why a well-compressed image can be a fifth of the original size and still look identical.

The first decision is format, because it sets the ceiling on how small you can go. JPEG is the workhorse for photographs and gradients. PNG is the right pick for screenshots, logos, line art, and anything needing a transparent background, since its lossless encoding keeps text and edges crisp. WebP is the modern all-rounder, handling both photo-like and graphic content and landing roughly a quarter to a third smaller than an equivalent JPEG. If your destination, such as a website or modern browser, supports WebP, it is usually the smartest target.

Next comes the quality setting, which controls how aggressively a lossy format throws away detail. For web and email, a quality of 80 to 85 is the sweet spot: files come out several times smaller than a lossless copy while the loss stays invisible at normal viewing. Pushing to 95 or 100 mostly wastes bytes for no real gain, and dropping below about 60 is where ringing and blocky squares start to appear in skies and smooth areas. Keep in mind that quality numbers are not standardized, so the same value can behave a little differently across tools.

Resizing the pixel dimensions often saves more than compression alone, and the two work best together. There is no point serving a 4000-pixel-wide image into a 800-pixel slot; scale it down to the dimensions it will actually display, then compress. While you are at it, strip the EXIF metadata. That hidden block of camera settings, timestamps, and GPS coordinates can add hundreds of kilobytes and quietly expose where a photo was taken, and removing it has zero impact on how the picture looks.

Finally, protect your originals. Lossy compression is a one-way street: each time a JPEG is opened and re-saved it is compressed again, and the small losses stack up into visible artifacts. Always compress from the highest-quality master you have rather than from a file that has already been squeezed, and keep that master archived. Do your editing on the original, export a compressed copy for sharing or publishing, and you get small, fast files without ever degrading the version you care about.

  • Aim for quality 80 to 85 for photos; it is usually visually identical to the original at a fraction of the size.
  • Resize the image to its display dimensions first, then compress, for far bigger savings than compression alone.
  • Turn on metadata stripping to shave extra kilobytes and remove GPS location data before sharing publicly.
  • Choose WebP when your destination supports it to gain another 25 to 35 percent over JPEG at the same quality.

Read the full guide →

Tool by the Super Simple Digital Tools Team. Reviewed by our editorial team. Free to use, no signup required.

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