Image Compressor

Compress images and reduce file size in your browser — private, free, no upload.

How to use the Image Compressor

  1. Select your image. Click the file input and choose any JPEG, PNG, WebP, or other browser-supported image from your device.
  2. Set quality and options. Drag the quality slider (60–80% is a good starting point for photos), optionally enter a max width to resize, and choose an output format.
  3. Compress and download. Click 'Compress Image'. A preview and size comparison appear immediately — click 'Download compressed image' to save the result.

Why use our Image Compressor

100% private — runs in your browser. Your photos and images stay on your device. Nothing is uploaded to any server — compression happens locally using the Canvas API.
See exactly how much you saved. Original size, compressed size, and percentage saved are shown side by side so you can make an informed decision.
Resize while you compress. Optionally set a maximum width to scale the image down proportionally — perfect for optimising images for websites or email.

Free to use — premium coming soon

FREE
  • Unlimited compressions
  • Quality slider (10–100%)
  • Optional max-width resize
  • JPEG, WebP, or original format output
PREMIUM
  • Remove ads
  • Batch compress multiple files at once
  • Compress entire folders
  • Save compression presets

About the Image Compressor

The Image Compressor shrinks the file size of your photos and graphics while keeping them looking sharp. Drop in a JPEG, PNG, or WebP and the tool re-encodes the picture at a smaller size, typically cutting 60 to 80 percent off a high-resolution photo with no difference you can spot at normal viewing distance. It is built for the everyday problem of a file that is simply too big: a phone snapshot that will not attach to an email, a product photo that bloats a web page, or a portfolio image that takes forever to upload.

Reach for this tool whenever weight matters more than the last few pixels of detail. Web images are the second-heaviest part of a typical page after video and make up roughly 40 percent of a desktop page's total size, so trimming them is one of the fastest ways to speed up a site and help it rank. It is equally handy for staying under email caps (Gmail and Outlook stop attachments around 25 MB), fitting upload limits on job boards and government forms, and freeing up phone or cloud storage without deleting anything.

Under the hood the compressor decodes your image and re-saves it using smarter encoding. For photos it uses lossy compression, gently discarding fine detail the eye barely registers, which is why a quality setting near 80 to 85 usually looks identical to the original at a fraction of the size. For flat graphics, logos, and screenshots it can keep things lossless, rewriting the same pixels more efficiently. You can also strip EXIF metadata such as camera model, timestamps, and GPS coordinates, which trims extra kilobytes and removes private location data with zero effect on how the image looks.

Compression runs in your browser, so your pictures are processed on your own device and are never uploaded to a server. That keeps personal photos and confidential documents private and makes the tool fast even on a slow connection, since nothing has to travel over the network. One honest caveat: lossy compression is permanent, and re-compressing an already-compressed JPEG repeatedly will slowly add visible artifacts. Always start from the highest-quality original you have and keep that master file untouched.

Frequently asked questions

Will compressing my image make it look worse?

At sensible settings, no visible difference. A quality level around 80 to 85 typically removes 60 to 80 percent of the file size while artifacts stay invisible at normal viewing. You only start seeing blockiness or fuzziness if you push the quality very low or compress the same JPEG over and over.

What is the difference between compressing and resizing an image?

Compressing keeps the same pixel dimensions but re-encodes the file to take fewer bytes. Resizing reduces the actual width and height in pixels. They are separate operations, and for the biggest savings you often do both: resize to the size it will actually be displayed, then compress.

Which format should I compress to: JPEG, PNG, or WebP?

Use JPEG or WebP for photographs and PNG for graphics with text, sharp edges, or transparency. WebP usually produces files 25 to 35 percent smaller than JPEG at the same visual quality, so it is the best choice when your destination supports it.

Are my images uploaded to a server?

No. The compression happens entirely in your browser on your own device, so your files never leave your computer or phone. That keeps private photos and documents secure and means the tool works quickly even on a weak connection.

Can I compress an image to a specific KB or MB target?

Yes. Lower the quality slider and the estimated output size drops with it, so you can dial in a result that fits an email cap, an upload limit, or a 200 KB web-page budget. If one pass is not small enough, also reduce the pixel dimensions before compressing.

From our blog

How to Resize an Image to Exact Pixels Without Wrecking It

By the Super Simple Digital Tools Team · Updated June 2026

Most resizing problems come from guessing at numbers instead of starting with the spec you actually have to meet. Before you touch the tool, find the exact requirement: the pixel dimensions a platform asks for, the maximum width an upload form allows, or the size a layout slot will display. Write down the width and height in pixels and ignore everything else for now. DPI, inches, and centimetres are distractions for screen and web work, because the only thing those destinations read is the raw pixel count of the file.

With a target in hand, the first decision is whether to keep the aspect ratio locked. Locking it means you enter one dimension and the tool derives the other, preserving the original proportions so the image never stretches. This is what you want the vast majority of the time. Unlock it only when a destination demands an exact box, such as a strict square avatar, and you accept that the content may squash. A safer route is to resize proportionally to get close, then crop the excess to land on the exact box without distorting anyone's face.

Direction matters more than people expect. Going smaller is the friendly direction: the tool throws away surplus pixels and the result stays sharp, which is why downscaling a big camera photo for the web almost always looks great. Going bigger is the risky direction. There is no hidden detail to recover, so the algorithm averages existing pixels to fill the gaps, and the image grows softer and can pick up faint halos around edges. If you must enlarge, do it in modest steps and accept that a small source will never become a large, crisp one.

Format and the quality slider decide your final file size. PNG is lossless and best for graphics, logos, and screenshots with flat colour and sharp text, but it produces large files for photographs. JPG and WEBP are better for photos because their quality setting lets you compress hard. Drop the quality slider and you shed kilobytes fast, usually with little visible change until you push it too far. WEBP typically gives the smallest file at a given quality, which is handy when an upload limit is measured in kilobytes rather than pixels.

Finally, think about where the work happens. Because this resizer runs on the browser canvas, your image is processed on your own machine and is never uploaded, which is exactly what you want for ID photos, contracts, or anything you would not email to a stranger. The trade-off of any canvas resize is that very aggressive single-step shrinks can introduce slight aliasing, so if you are reducing an image dramatically, a couple of moderate passes will look cleaner than one giant jump. Check the preview, confirm the dimensions match the spec, and download.

  • Copy the exact pixel dimensions from the platform's help page first, then enter those numbers verbatim rather than eyeballing a percentage.
  • Keep the aspect-ratio lock on by default; only unlock it when a destination truly requires a fixed box, and crop instead of stretch when you can.
  • When you need to hit a kilobyte limit, export as WEBP or JPG and lower the quality slider step by step while watching the preview.
  • Avoid enlarging small images; if you must, resize in two or three smaller steps to reduce softness and edge halos instead of one big jump.

Read the full guide →

Tool by the Super Simple Digital Tools Team. Reviewed by our editorial team. Free to use, no signup required.

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