Image Compressor

Compress images and reduce file size in your browser — private, free, no upload.

Select image

How to use the Image Compressor

Select your image. Click the file input and choose any JPEG, PNG, WebP, or other browser-supported image from your device.
Set quality and options. Drag the quality slider (60–80% is a good starting point for photos), optionally enter a max width to resize, and choose an output format.
Compress and download. Click 'Compress Image'. A preview and size comparison appear immediately — click 'Download compressed image' to save the result.

Why use our Image Compressor

100% private — runs in your browser. Your photos and images stay on your device. Nothing is uploaded to any server — compression happens locally using the Canvas API.

See exactly how much you saved. Original size, compressed size, and percentage saved are shown side by side so you can make an informed decision.

Resize while you compress. Optionally set a maximum width to scale the image down proportionally — perfect for optimising images for websites or email.

Free to use — premium coming soon

FREE

✓ Unlimited compressions
✓ Quality slider (10–100%)
✓ Optional max-width resize
✓ JPEG, WebP, or original format output

PREMIUM

★ Remove ads
★ Batch compress multiple files at once
★ Compress entire folders
★ Save compression presets

About the Image Compressor

The Image Compressor shrinks the file size of your photos and graphics while keeping them looking sharp. Drop in a JPEG, PNG, or WebP and the tool re-encodes the picture at a smaller size, typically cutting 60 to 80 percent off a high-resolution photo with no difference you can spot at normal viewing distance. It is built for the everyday problem of a file that is simply too big: a phone snapshot that will not attach to an email, a product photo that bloats a web page, or a portfolio image that takes forever to upload.

Reach for this tool whenever weight matters more than the last few pixels of detail. Web images are the second-heaviest part of a typical page after video and make up roughly 40 percent of a desktop page's total size, so trimming them is one of the fastest ways to speed up a site and help it rank. It is equally handy for staying under email caps (Gmail and Outlook stop attachments around 25 MB), fitting upload limits on job boards and government forms, and freeing up phone or cloud storage without deleting anything.

Under the hood the compressor decodes your image and re-saves it using smarter encoding. For photos it uses lossy compression, gently discarding fine detail the eye barely registers, which is why a quality setting near 80 to 85 usually looks identical to the original at a fraction of the size. For flat graphics, logos, and screenshots it can keep things lossless, rewriting the same pixels more efficiently. You can also strip EXIF metadata such as camera model, timestamps, and GPS coordinates, which trims extra kilobytes and removes private location data with zero effect on how the image looks.

Compression runs in your browser, so your pictures are processed on your own device and are never uploaded to a server. That keeps personal photos and confidential documents private and makes the tool fast even on a slow connection, since nothing has to travel over the network. One honest caveat: lossy compression is permanent, and re-compressing an already-compressed JPEG repeatedly will slowly add visible artifacts. Always start from the highest-quality original you have and keep that master file untouched.

Frequently asked questions

Will compressing my image make it look worse?

At sensible settings, no visible difference. A quality level around 80 to 85 typically removes 60 to 80 percent of the file size while artifacts stay invisible at normal viewing. You only start seeing blockiness or fuzziness if you push the quality very low or compress the same JPEG over and over.

What is the difference between compressing and resizing an image?

Compressing keeps the same pixel dimensions but re-encodes the file to take fewer bytes. Resizing reduces the actual width and height in pixels. They are separate operations, and for the biggest savings you often do both: resize to the size it will actually be displayed, then compress.

Which format should I compress to: JPEG, PNG, or WebP?

Use JPEG or WebP for photographs and PNG for graphics with text, sharp edges, or transparency. WebP usually produces files 25 to 35 percent smaller than JPEG at the same visual quality, so it is the best choice when your destination supports it.

Are my images uploaded to a server?

No. The compression happens entirely in your browser on your own device, so your files never leave your computer or phone. That keeps private photos and documents secure and means the tool works quickly even on a weak connection.

Can I compress an image to a specific KB or MB target?

Yes. Lower the quality slider and the estimated output size drops with it, so you can dial in a result that fits an email cap, an upload limit, or a 200 KB web-page budget. If one pass is not small enough, also reduce the pixel dimensions before compressing.

From our blog

How to Open RAR Files Without Installing Anything

By the Super Simple Digital Tools Team · Updated June 2026

If you have ever downloaded a file ending in .rar and double-clicked it only to get a shrug from your computer, you have met the most common RAR frustration. RAR is a compression format, like ZIP, but it was designed to squeeze files smaller and split them across multiple volumes more gracefully. The trade-off is that it is proprietary: Windows ships with no RAR support at all, and macOS only opens ZIP out of the box. So a perfectly good archive can sit on your desktop, unreadable, until you find a way to unpack it.

The browser-based route solves this without committing you to new software. You open the extractor page, drag your .rar file onto it, and a decompression engine compiled to WebAssembly reads the archive's directory, unpacks each entry, and hands you the files to download. Because all of that math runs on your own machine, the process is fast and the contents never travel over the network. That last point matters more than it sounds: invoices, ID scans, or private photos inside an archive stay entirely on your device.

Passwords are where people get stuck. A protected RAR will prompt you for a password before it reveals anything, and there is an important distinction here. If you know the password, type it in and the archive decrypts locally. If you have forgotten it, no online tool can simply open the file, because RAR5 protects contents with AES-256 and a slow key-derivation function specifically to make guessing impractical. The honest answer is to find the password, not to look for a magic unlocker.

Split archives are the other classic puzzle. Large files are often shared as a set named archive.part1.rar, archive.part2.rar, and so on, or in the older style archive.rar, archive.r00, archive.r01. These are not separate downloads you open one at a time, they are pieces of a single archive. To extract them you must hand the tool the whole set at once, with every part present and correctly named. Miss one volume and the archive simply cannot be reassembled, so always confirm you downloaded the complete sequence.

A few format details help you trust the result. RAR5 added a much larger compression dictionary and stronger BLAKE2 checksums, and many archives carry a recovery record, parity data that can repair a limited amount of corruption. If extraction fails on a file that downloaded incompletely, re-downloading is usually the fix; if it fails because a part is genuinely missing or the password is wrong, no amount of retrying will help. Knowing which problem you have saves a lot of wasted time.

For split sets, select every volume (all .partN.rar or the .rar plus .r00/.r01 files) together in one go, never just the first one.
If a download was interrupted, an extraction error usually means a corrupt file, re-download the .rar before assuming the archive itself is broken.
Enter passwords exactly as given, including capitalization, RAR passwords are case-sensitive and a single wrong character will block decryption.
Disconnect from Wi-Fi after the page loads to confirm extraction still works locally, proof that your files are not being uploaded.

Read the full guide →

Tool by the Super Simple Digital Tools Team. Reviewed by our editorial team. Free to use, no signup required.