Inch-Pounds to Foot-Pounds

Convert inch-pounds to foot-pounds instantly, with a full reference table.

Inch-pounds to Foot-pounds (torque) conversion table
Inch-pounds (in·lb)Foot-pounds (torque) (ft·lb)
121
242
363
484
605
726
847
968
1089
12010
Formula: One inch-pound equals 0.0833333 foot-pounds. To convert inch-pounds to foot-pounds, multiply by 0.0833333, or equivalently divide by 12.

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About the Inch-Pounds to Foot-Pounds

The Inch-Pounds to Foot-Pounds converter turns a torque or energy figure given in inch-pounds (in-lb, also written lbf-in) into the equivalent in foot-pounds (ft-lb). Both units describe the same physical quantity: a pound of force applied at a distance, the difference being only whether that distance is measured in inches or feet. Because a foot contains exactly twelve inches, the relationship between the two is fixed and never changes. You will run into this conversion constantly when a service manual quotes torque in one unit but your wrench is calibrated in the other.

Reach for this tool whenever you are tightening fasteners to spec and the numbers do not match your wrench. Spark plugs, valve-cover bolts, oil-pan bolts, and front wheel bearings are typically specified in inch-pounds, while lug nuts and suspension hardware are quoted in foot-pounds. A common real-world case: a manufacturer lists a spark plug at 150 in-lb, which is 12.5 ft-lb, or a GM plug at 132 in-lb, which is exactly 11 ft-lb. Converting first lets you confirm the figure is sensible before you set a click wrench and risk stripping a small bolt.

The math is straightforward: divide the inch-pound value by 12 to get foot-pounds. So 240 in-lb / 12 = 20 ft-lb, and 96 in-lb / 12 = 8 ft-lb. To go the other direction, multiply foot-pounds by 12. This converter applies that exact divisor, so the result carries no rounding error introduced by the unit change itself; any decimals you see come only from your original number. Enter whole numbers or decimals and the tool returns the precise foot-pound equivalent instantly.

Because the conversion is purely mathematical, accuracy here is exact rather than approximate, unlike conversions between unrelated systems. Everything runs locally in your browser, so the figures you type, often pulled from a repair manual or torque chart, are never uploaded to a server or stored. One practical caution: converting the number does not change which wrench you should use. A small in-lb spec is best set on an inch-pound wrench, since foot-pound wrenches are least accurate at the bottom of their range.

Frequently asked questions

What is the formula to convert inch-pounds to foot-pounds?

Divide the inch-pound value by 12. For example, 180 in-lb / 12 = 15 ft-lb. The divisor is exactly 12 because there are 12 inches in a foot.

Why is the conversion factor exactly 12?

Inch-pounds and foot-pounds use the same unit of force (the pound) and differ only in the distance unit. Since one foot equals exactly 12 inches, one foot-pound equals exactly 12 inch-pounds, making the conversion precise with no rounding.

Is a foot-pound bigger or smaller than an inch-pound?

A foot-pound is twelve times larger than an inch-pound. That means any value in foot-pounds will be a smaller number than the same torque expressed in inch-pounds.

My spec says 150 in-lb. What is that in foot-pounds?

150 in-lb divided by 12 equals 12.5 ft-lb. This is a typical spark plug torque, and it is usually best set with an inch-pound wrench since 12.5 ft-lb sits near the bottom of most foot-pound wrench ranges.

Does converting the units mean I can use either torque wrench?

No. The number is the same torque either way, but small specifications are more accurately set with an inch-pound wrench. Foot-pound wrenches lose accuracy at very low readings, so match the wrench to the size of the spec, not just the unit.

From our blog

Reading Pressure Right: How to Convert psi, bar, kPa, atm and mmHg Without Mistakes

By the Super Simple Digital Tools Team · Updated June 2026

Pressure shows up in everyday life under a confusing pile of names, partly because different industries and countries standardised on different units long before there was an agreed metric base. A car's door placard might say 32 psi, a European pump reads in bar, a weather app shows 1015 hPa, a scuba tank is stamped 200 bar, and a clinic records 120/80 mmHg. They all measure the same quantity, force per unit area, so any one of them can be turned into any other once you know what each unit is anchored to.

That anchor is the pascal, the SI unit equal to one newton spread over one square metre. A pascal is tiny in human terms, which is why you rarely see raw pascals outside science; everyday units bundle thousands or hundreds of thousands of them. The clean definitions make conversion exact: 1 kPa is 1,000 Pa, 1 bar is 100,000 Pa, 1 hPa is 100 Pa (and identical to 1 millibar), 1 atm is 101,325 Pa, 1 psi is about 6,894.76 Pa, and 1 mmHg is about 133.322 Pa. Convert your value to pascals first, then back out to whatever unit you need, and the maths always lines up.

The fastest way to build intuition is to memorise a few reference points around normal air pressure at sea level. One atmosphere is roughly 14.7 psi, just over 1 bar, about 1013 hPa, and 760 mmHg. So a tyre at 32 psi is carrying a bit more than two atmospheres of air, a 200-bar dive cylinder holds close to 2,900 psi, and a stormy 980 hPa low is only about 3% below normal sea-level pressure. These anchors let you eyeball whether a converted number is sensible before you trust it.

The most common real error is not the arithmetic but mixing up gauge and absolute pressure. Most tyre gauges, pump dials and dive gauges read gauge pressure, meaning pressure above the surrounding atmosphere. Units like atm and many scientific readings are absolute, meaning they include that roughly 14.7 psi of background air. If you convert a gauge psi reading and compare it to an absolute value, you can be a whole atmosphere off. When precision counts, confirm which baseline each number uses before converting.

For routine jobs, pick the unit your equipment expects and convert toward it rather than away. Inflating tyres? Convert the placard figure into whatever your pump shows and stop there. Logging a metric medical form? Take the mmHg reading straight to kPa. Comparing cylinder specs? Settle on bar or psi and keep everything in that one unit. Doing the conversion once, into the unit you will actually act on, removes the back-and-forth where rounding and unit confusion creep in.

  • Remember the sea-level anchor set: 1 atm = 14.7 psi = 1.013 bar = 1013 hPa = 760 mmHg, and use it to sanity-check any result.
  • Check whether your reading is gauge or absolute before comparing it with atm or scientific values; the difference is roughly one atmosphere (about 14.7 psi).
  • For tyres, the quick mental factors are: psi to bar divide by 14.5, psi to kPa multiply by about 6.9; e.g. 32 psi is roughly 2.2 bar.
  • Treat hPa and millibar as the same number on weather maps, but never confuse them with bar, which is 1000 times larger.

Read the full guide →

Tool by the Super Simple Digital Tools Team. Reviewed by our editorial team. Free to use, no signup required.

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