Gravel Calculator

Estimate cubic yards and tons of gravel needed for a rectangular area at a given depth. Free, instant, no signup.

Formula: yd³ = L × W × depth(in) ÷ 12 ÷ 27 | Tons = yd³ × 1.4

How to use the Gravel Calculator

  1. Enter your values. Fill in the fields with your numbers.
  2. Calculate. Press Calculate to run the gravel calculator.
  3. Use the result. Copy the result or try a related tool next.

Why use our Gravel Calculator

Instant results. Enter your figures and the gravel calculator returns an answer in seconds.
Free & private. Runs in your browser — no signup, and nothing is sent to a server.
Accurate. Uses standard formulas so you can rely on the numbers.

Free to use — premium coming soon

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About the Gravel Calculator

The Gravel Calculator turns three simple measurements, length, width, and depth, into the two numbers a supplier actually quotes against: volume in cubic yards and weight in tons. Gravel is sold both ways depending on the yard, so getting both figures up front stops you from over-ordering or making a second trip mid-project. Enter your area in feet and your depth in inches, and the tool handles the unit juggling, the divide-by-27 conversion, and the density multiplication for you. It is built for driveways, garden paths, French drains, patios, shed bases, and any project where loose stone has to cover a defined footprint.

Reach for this calculator before you call a quarry or load up at the landscape supply yard. Gravel is heavy and awkward to return, and most yards have a delivery minimum, so guessing usually means paying for stone you do not need or coming up short on the last few square feet. It is equally useful for budgeting: once you know your tonnage, multiplying by a per-ton price gives a fast cost estimate. For layered jobs like a driveway, run the calculator once per layer, a typical build is a 6-inch sub-base, a 4-inch base, and a surface course, since each layer has its own depth.

Under the hood the math is straightforward. The tool multiplies length by width to get area, multiplies by depth (after converting inches to feet) to get cubic feet, then divides by 27 to reach cubic yards. To estimate weight it multiplies cubic yards by gravel density, commonly around 1.4 to 1.7 tons per cubic yard depending on stone type and size. A 20 ft by 10 ft area at 4 inches deep, for example, works out to roughly 2.5 cubic yards, or about 3.4 tons. Because gravel settles and compacts by 20 to 30 percent and some is always lost to spreading, it is wise to add a 10 to 20 percent overage.

Accuracy depends on two things the calculator cannot see: your real density and how evenly you measure. Pea gravel runs lighter than dense angular crushed stone, so a generic density is a sensible default, not a guarantee, ask your supplier for the exact figure if your order is large. For irregular areas, break the space into rectangles, calculate each, and add the results. Everything runs entirely in your browser; your dimensions are never uploaded or stored, so you can plan a job, tweak the depth, and recalculate as many times as you like with no account and no data leaving your device.

Frequently asked questions

How do I convert cubic yards of gravel to tons?

Multiply your cubic yards by the gravel's density, which is usually about 1.4 to 1.7 tons per cubic yard. For example, 10 cubic yards of pea gravel at 1.4 tons/yd3 is roughly 14 tons. The calculator applies a sensible default density, but ask your supplier for the exact figure on big orders.

How deep should gravel be?

For decorative paths and patios, 2 to 3 inches is typical. Driveways generally need 4 to 6 inches, and on soft ground you should add a compacted crushed-stone base beneath the surface layer. Deeper is more stable but uses proportionally more material, so the depth you enter directly drives the tonnage.

How much extra gravel should I order for settling and waste?

Gravel compacts by about 20 to 30 percent and some is always lost during spreading. Adding 10 to 20 percent on top of the calculated amount is a safe buffer; lean toward 20 percent for smaller orders and 10 percent for orders of 5 tons or more.

Does pea gravel weigh the same as crushed stone?

Not exactly. Rounded pea gravel typically runs about 1.4 to 1.6 tons per cubic yard, while angular crushed stone can reach 1.35 to 1.7 tons depending on size and type. The difference is small but matters on large jobs, so use your supplier's density when you have it.

How do I calculate gravel for an irregular or curved area?

Split the space into simple rectangles (and rough triangles or part-circles), calculate the gravel for each piece, then add the totals together. This is far more accurate than trying to estimate one odd shape, and the calculator makes running several quick sums easy.

From our blog

How to Calculate Mulch the Right Way (and Avoid the Volcano Mistake)

By the Super Simple Digital Tools Team · Updated June 2026

Buying mulch goes wrong in one of two ways: you order by guesswork and come up short, or you over-order and watch the surplus turn into a soggy, weed-seeded pile. The fix is to think in volume, not area. Mulch is sold by the cubic yard or by the bagged cubic foot, and the only way to land on the right number is to combine how much ground you are covering with how thick you want the layer. That single extra variable, depth, is where most rough estimates fall apart.

Start by measuring your beds in feet. For rectangles, length times width gives square footage. For circular tree rings, measure the radius and use 3.14 times radius times radius. Odd, curving borders are easiest to handle by breaking them into a few simpler rectangles and circles, measuring each, and adding the pieces together. Jot these figures down before you open the calculator so you are entering real measurements rather than eyeballed ones, since the accuracy of the result depends entirely on the accuracy of what goes in.

Next, settle on depth. Two to three inches is the sweet spot for most flower beds and borders, deep enough to block light from weed seeds and slow evaporation, shallow enough to let water and air through. For brand new beds or heavily weedy ground you might go a little thicker, but more is not always better. When you have area and depth, the conversion is simply area in square feet times depth in inches divided by 324 to get cubic yards, the same calculation the tool runs instantly.

Once you have a cubic yard figure, decide how to buy. Bulk delivery is cheaper per unit and worth it past roughly two or three yards, while bags suit small jobs and tight access. To switch between them, remember a cubic yard equals 27 cubic feet, so divide your cubic feet total by the bag size, 2 or 1.5 cubic feet, to count bags. Always round the final order up a notch to cover settling and the inevitable uneven spots in any real garden.

Finally, spread it well. Keep mulch pulled back a few inches from tree trunks and plant stems in a flat ring or donut shape, never heaped against the bark in a cone. Piling mulch into a volcano against a trunk traps moisture, invites rot and rodents, and can slowly girdle and kill an established tree. Getting both the quantity and the placement right is what turns a weekend of hauling bags into a bed that actually thrives.

  • Use the 324 rule as a quick sanity check: one yard covers about 162 square feet at the common 2 inch depth, so a 160 square foot bed needs roughly one yard.
  • For tree rings, measure the radius, not the diameter, and use area equals 3.14 times radius squared before entering it as your square footage.
  • Switch to bulk delivery once you pass two to three cubic yards, since 14 bags per yard quickly costs more and means far more lifting.
  • Keep mulch 2 to 3 inches deep and a few inches clear of trunks and stems, and top up only once existing mulch drops below about 2 inches.

Read the full guide →

Tool by the Super Simple Digital Tools Team. Reviewed by our editorial team. Free to use, no signup required.

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