GPA Calculator

Calculate your GPA on a 4.0 scale from your courses, grades and credits. Free, in your browser.

CourseGradeCredits
Result
3.63
GPA (4.0 scale)
10
Total credits
36.3
Quality points

Unweighted GPA on a 4.0 scale. Grade-point values follow the common US scale; your school may differ.

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About the GPA Calculator

The GPA Calculator turns a list of letter grades and credit hours into a single grade point average on the standard 4.0 scale. Instead of averaging your letter grades directly, it does what schools actually do: it converts each grade to its point value (A=4.0, A-=3.7, B+=3.3, B=3.0, and so on down to F=0.0), multiplies that by the course's credit hours to get quality points, then divides the total quality points by the total credit hours. That credit weighting is the whole point. A 4-credit course pulls on your average roughly a third harder than a 3-credit one, so the same B affects two classes differently.

Reach for this tool when you need a number that matches your transcript rather than a rough guess. Common moments: checking whether you'll clear a scholarship or honor-roll cutoff, projecting a semester before final grades post, working out the grade you'd need next term to lift a cumulative average, or converting a percentage-based report card into 4.0 terms for an application. It handles both a single semester and a running cumulative GPA, so you can fold a new term into the credits you've already banked and see exactly where you land.

Mechanically, enter each course's letter grade and credit value, and the calculator assigns the point value, computes quality points per row, and sums everything before dividing. For weighted GPA it adds a bonus to honors and AP/IB courses before averaging, typically +0.5 for honors and +1.0 for AP or IB, which is why a weighted average can rise above 4.0. Unweighted GPA ignores course difficulty entirely and caps every A at 4.0. To merge terms into a cumulative figure, it adds all quality points and all credit hours together rather than averaging the per-semester GPAs, which would distort the result when terms carry different credit loads.

One accuracy note specific to grades: there is no single universal GPA scale. Some schools omit pluses and minuses, some treat A+ as 4.0 while others use 4.3, and weighted bonuses vary by district. This calculator uses the common U.S. 4.0 conventions, but your registrar's exact mapping is the authoritative one, so confirm the result against your official transcript before relying on it for an application. Everything is computed in your browser as you type, so your grades are never uploaded, stored, or sent to a server.

Frequently asked questions

How is GPA actually calculated on a 4.0 scale?

Each letter grade is converted to points (A=4.0, B=3.0, C=2.0, etc.), multiplied by the course's credit hours to get quality points, and then all quality points are divided by all credit hours. So an A in a 4-credit class contributes 16 quality points, while a B in a 3-credit class contributes 9.

What is the difference between weighted and unweighted GPA?

Unweighted GPA caps every course at 4.0 regardless of difficulty, so an A is always 4.0. Weighted GPA adds bonus points for harder courses, commonly +0.5 for honors and +1.0 for AP or IB, which is why a weighted GPA can exceed 4.0.

How do I calculate my cumulative GPA across multiple semesters?

Add up the total quality points from every semester and divide by the total credit hours from every semester, rather than averaging the individual semester GPAs. For example, 198 quality points over 60 credits plus a 15-credit term worth 57 points gives 255 / 75 = 3.40.

Do colleges look at my weighted or unweighted GPA?

Many colleges recalculate applicants to an unweighted GPA for fair comparison, then separately assess course rigor from your transcript and school profile. In practice they consider both the GPA and how challenging your courses were, so neither number is ignored.

Why doesn't averaging my letter grades give the same answer?

Because GPA is weighted by credit hours, not a plain average of grades. A grade in a 4-credit course counts more than the same grade in a 1-credit elective, so a credit-weighted total can differ noticeably from a simple grade-by-grade average.

From our blog

Price Per Square Foot: How to Use It Without Getting Burned

By the Super Simple Digital Tools Team · Updated June 2026

Price per square foot is one of the most quoted numbers in real estate and construction, and one of the most misused. The calculation never changes: take the total price and divide it by the area in square feet. A $300,000 house at 2,500 square feet is $120 per square foot; a $600,000 condo at 1,500 square feet is $400 per square foot. The arithmetic is trivial. The skill is knowing when that single number tells the truth and when it quietly lies to you.

Its real job is comparison. On its own, '$250 per square foot' means nothing. Set against three similar homes on the same block selling for $230 to $240, it tells you a property may be priced ahead of the market; against comps at $290, it may be a deal. The metric strips away the distraction of total price so a 1,400-square-foot starter home and a 2,800-square-foot family home can be judged on the same scale. That only holds when the homes are genuinely alike in location, lot, condition, and size.

The classic trap is comparing across sizes. Smaller homes almost always cost more per square foot, because every home needs a kitchen, bathrooms, a foundation, and mechanical systems, and those fixed costs are divided over fewer feet. The first 1,500 to 2,500 square feet carry the essential rooms; space beyond that adds 'nice to have' area with diminishing value. So a big house showing a low per-foot price is not a bargain by default, and a small one showing a high price is not overpriced, it is just math.

The second trap is the square footage itself. Appraisers measure gross living area: space that is finished, heated by a conventional system, reachable from the rest of the home, and at least seven feet tall. Basements, garages, sunrooms, and unpermitted conversions are typically left out. If a listing folds those into its size, the area looks bigger and the price per foot looks lower than reality. Before you trust any per-foot figure, confirm exactly which spaces the square footage includes.

Construction follows the same formula but answers a different question: what does it cost to build, not what will it sell for. National build costs commonly land in the low hundreds of dollars per square foot before land and contractor margin, while listing prices per square foot run higher because they bake in land value, profit, and demand. Whether you are buying, renting, or building, run your own numbers through the calculator, hold the inputs consistent, and treat the result as a starting point for comparison rather than a verdict on value.

  • Always compare per-foot figures within the same neighborhood and a similar size range; the metric breaks down across different markets or large size gaps.
  • Confirm whether the square footage is gross living area or total under-roof area before dividing, since basements and garages can distort the result.
  • Use the calculator in reverse: multiply a known local rate per square foot by the area to sanity-check an asking price or set a renovation budget.
  • For construction quotes, write down whether the price includes land, finishes, and contractor margin so you compare build costs on equal terms.

Read the full guide →

Tool by the Super Simple Digital Tools Team. Reviewed by our editorial team. Free to use, no signup required.

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