Area Converter

Convert between area units instantly — pick any from and to unit.

Value

Convert to

Free to use — premium coming soon

FREE

✓ All units
✓ Adjustable decimals
✓ Instant results

PREMIUM

★ Remove ads
★ Bulk conversions
★ Conversion history

About the Area Converter

The Area Converter changes a surface measurement from the unit you have into the unit you need, moving freely between metric units (square meters, square kilometers, hectares, square centimeters) and imperial or US customary units (square feet, square yards, square miles, and the acre). You type a number, choose the source unit and the target unit, and the converted value appears. It exists to solve a very specific kind of friction: land, floors, plots, and roofs are routinely described in different units depending on the country, the profession, and the document, and area never converts on a simple one-to-one basis the way some people expect.

Reach for this when measurements cross systems or scales. Real estate listings quote interior space in square feet in the US but in square meters almost everywhere else, while land is sized in acres in the US and Commonwealth countries and in hectares internationally. Farmers compare field sizes against global yield figures reported in tonnes per hectare; builders price flooring, paint, tiling, or turf by the square meter or square foot; gardeners and landscapers size beds and lawns; and surveyors and planners work in hectares for deeds and zoning. Even a single project can mix units, which is exactly where quick, reliable conversion saves money and rework.

The key fact to understand is that area is two-dimensional, so converting it uses the square of the linear factor, not the linear factor itself. Because one foot is exactly 0.3048 meters, one square foot is 0.3048 squared, or exactly 0.09290304 square meters. The tool routes every value through a single base unit, the square meter, using fixed factors: one acre is exactly 43,560 square feet (about 4,046.86 m²), one hectare is exactly 10,000 m² (about 2.47105 acres), and one square meter is about 10.7639 square feet. Converting in then out of the base keeps even unusual pairings like acres to hectares internally consistent.

On accuracy and privacy, the underlying ratios are exact international definitions, so the only rounding is in how many decimal places are shown on screen. For land deeds, fencing, or material orders you can read the longer figure or round to the precision your project needs rather than trusting the displayed short form. Everything runs in your browser as plain arithmetic, so it is instant on phone or desktop, works without an account, and never uploads what you type. Your plot sizes, floor areas, and land figures stay on your own device.

Frequently asked questions

How many square feet are in an acre?

One acre equals exactly 43,560 square feet. That figure is fixed by definition, which is why a 1-acre plot is the same size everywhere it is used.

How big is a hectare compared to an acre?

A hectare is 10,000 square meters, the area of a square 100 meters on each side, and equals about 2.471 acres. Conversely, one acre is about 0.4047 hectares.

Why isn't converting area the same as converting length?

Area is two-dimensional, so you square the linear factor. Since one foot is 0.3048 meters, one square foot is 0.3048 squared, which is 0.09290304 square meters, not 0.3048.

How do I convert square meters to square feet?

Multiply the square meters by about 10.7639 to get square feet, or just enter the value and pick the units. To go back, multiply square feet by 0.09290304 or divide by 10.7639.

Which area units should I use for land versus a building?

Land is usually measured in acres or hectares, while building and floor space is measured in square feet or square meters. Quoting a 10-acre property as 435,600 square feet is technically correct but unwieldy, so the larger land units are preferred.

From our blog

Watts to Amps: How to Read an Appliance Label and Know What Your Circuit Can Handle

By the Super Simple Digital Tools Team · Updated June 2026

Almost every electrical device tells you its wattage but not its current draw, yet current is what trips breakers, blows fuses, and overheats undersized wire. Converting watts to amps closes that gap. The relationship is simple once you have the supply voltage: current equals power divided by voltage. The hard part is not the arithmetic, it is knowing which voltage and which power factor to plug in for your situation, and then interpreting the answer against the limits of your circuit.

Voltage is non-negotiable in this conversion. A device rated at 1500 W behaves very differently depending on where it is plugged in: on a 120 V circuit it pulls 12.5 A, but on a 240 V supply the same 1500 W draws only 6.25 A. That is the whole reason ovens, dryers, and EV chargers run on higher voltage, halving the voltage doubles the current, and higher current demands thicker, more expensive cable. Always use the voltage the device will actually run at, not a generic figure.

For DC and resistive AC loads the plain formula is enough, but reactive AC loads need a power factor. Power factor is the gap between the real power doing work (watts) and the apparent power the circuit must actually deliver (volt-amps). A motor running at a power factor of 0.8 draws 25 percent more current than its wattage alone implies, because amps equal watts divided by both volts and power factor. Skipping power factor is one of the most common reasons a hand calculation underestimates real current draw.

Off-grid and low-voltage systems are where this conversion bites hardest. On a 12 V camper or solar setup, modest wattages become large currents: a 400 W panel array works out to roughly 33 A, and a 1200 W inverter load can pull 100 A from the battery. Those numbers drive everything downstream, the wire gauge, the fuse within reach of the battery terminal, and the DC breaker, which is often sized at 125 percent of the calculated current and rounded up to the next standard rating.

Once you have the amp figure, compare it to your circuit's headroom before trusting it. A 15 A household circuit should not carry a continuous 14 A load, and motors briefly draw an inrush current several times their running value at startup. Use the converted amps as your starting planning number, add margin for continuous duty and startup surge, and verify against the equipment nameplate and local wiring rules. For permanent installations, a qualified electrician should sign off on the final sizing.

Read the supply voltage off the device label or your outlet (commonly 120 V or 240 V in homes, 12 V or 24 V in vehicles and solar systems) and use that exact figure, not a rounded one.
Set power factor to 1.0 for heaters and bulbs, but lower it to around 0.8 for motors and pumps, otherwise you will underestimate the current they draw.
For DC fuse and breaker sizing, take the calculated amps, multiply by 1.25 for continuous loads, then round up to the next standard fuse or breaker rating.
Remember that startup inrush on motors and compressors can be several times the running amps, so size protection and wiring for the surge, not just the steady-state figure.

Read the full guide →

Tool by the Super Simple Digital Tools Team. Reviewed by our editorial team. Free to use, no signup required.