Electricity Cost Calculator

Estimate the running cost of any appliance — pick a typical appliance or enter its wattage, set how long it runs, and get daily, monthly and yearly cost. Free, instant, no signup.

W
% capacity
hours/day
per kWh
Formula: Cost/day = (watts × capacity% ÷ 1000) × hours/day × price per kWh

How to use the Electricity Cost Calculator

  1. Enter your values. Fill in the fields with your numbers.
  2. Calculate. Press Calculate to run the electricity cost calculator.
  3. Use the result. Copy the result or try a related tool next.

Why use our Electricity Cost Calculator

Instant results. Enter your figures and the electricity cost calculator returns an answer in seconds.
Free & private. Runs in your browser — no signup, and nothing is sent to a server.
Accurate. Uses standard formulas so you can rely on the numbers.

Free to use — premium coming soon

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About the Electricity Cost Calculator

The Electricity Cost Calculator turns an appliance's power rating and how long you run it into a real money figure: cost per hour, day, month, and year. You enter three things you can find without an engineering degree: the device's wattage, the hours it runs, and the price your utility charges per kilowatt-hour (kWh). It then does the unit-juggling that trips most people up, converting watts to kilowatts and multiplying out the time and rate so you don't have to keep dividing by 1,000 in your head. It works for anything that plugs in, from a 5W phone charger to a 3,000W electric water heater.

Reach for this tool when you're trying to pin down where your bill actually goes. Common moments: deciding whether an old fridge or that space heater is worth keeping, sizing the savings before buying an energy-efficient replacement, settling a household argument over the cost of leaving lights or the AC on, or estimating the running cost of a new gaming PC, grow light, aquarium pump, or EV charger. It's equally useful for landlords splitting bills, small workshops costing out machinery, and anyone on a time-of-use plan checking what a high-draw appliance adds per session.

The math is the standard utility-billing formula: kilowatt-hours equal power (in kW) times hours, and cost equals kWh times your rate. So a 1,500W space heater run 8 hours a day at $0.17/kWh uses 12 kWh daily and costs about $2.04 a day, roughly $61 a month. If you only know amps and volts from the nameplate, multiply them (Watts = Volts x Amps) to get wattage first. Most US outlets supply 120 volts; large appliances like dryers and ranges use 240 volts.

Accuracy depends on your inputs, not the arithmetic. A device's listed wattage is its maximum draw, so motors, fridges, and anything that cycles on and off will use less on average than a flat-out estimate suggests, while standby or phantom loads mean many electronics keep sipping power even when 'off.' For the truest rate, copy the price per kWh straight off your bill, and add any per-kWh delivery or supply charges. Everything is computed locally in your browser, so your usage figures and bill details are never uploaded or stored anywhere.

Frequently asked questions

What electricity rate should I enter?

Use the price per kWh printed on your most recent utility bill, since rates vary widely by location. As a rough US reference, the residential average is around 17 cents per kWh, but real prices range from about 12 cents in some states to over 40 cents in Hawaii.

How do I find an appliance's wattage if it isn't labeled?

Check the nameplate, sticker, or manual first. If only amps and volts are listed, multiply them: Watts = Volts x Amps. A device drawing 5 amps on a 120-volt outlet uses 600 watts.

Why is my real bill higher than the calculator's estimate?

The calculator uses the appliance's rated (maximum) wattage and the hours you enter, but bills also include standby/phantom loads, appliances that cycle on and off, and per-kWh delivery, supply, and tax charges that may not be in your headline rate.

Does the calculator work for 240-volt appliances like dryers and ovens?

Yes. Just enter the total wattage of the appliance; the voltage doesn't need to be entered separately. If you only have amps, multiply by 240 (instead of 120) to get the wattage for those larger appliances.

How can I lower the cost a high-wattage device adds?

Run it for fewer hours, switch to a more efficient model, or shift use to off-peak times if you're on a time-of-use plan. For electronics that draw standby power, unplugging them or using a switchable power strip eliminates phantom load.

From our blog

How to Use an Online Scientific Calculator Without Getting Wrong Answers

By the Super Simple Digital Tools Team · Updated June 2026

A scientific calculator is only as accurate as the way you feed it. Surveys of students consistently find that the wrong answers rarely come from a faulty tool; they come from a handful of repeatable habits. The good news is that almost every error falls into one of four buckets: wrong angle mode, missing parentheses, picking the wrong function, and rounding too early. Once you recognize these, an online calculator becomes a reliable check on your own work rather than another thing to second-guess.

Start with angle mode every single time you touch a trig function. Degree mode treats 30 as 30 degrees; radian mode treats 30 as 30 radians, which is a completely different angle. A classic giveaway is calculating sin(30), expecting 0.5, and seeing roughly minus 0.988 instead. Before you compute, glance at the DEG/RAD toggle and make it match the units in your problem. Word problems and geometry are usually in degrees; calculus and physics derivations are usually in radians.

Next, lean on parentheses harder than feels necessary. The calculator obeys PEMDAS, so it will not magically know that you meant the whole numerator to be divided. Writing (3 + 5) / 2 is not the same as 3 + 5 / 2. The same applies to functions: log(3 x) where you mean the log of a product must be written log(3 * x), not log(3) * x. When in doubt, wrap each meaningful chunk in its own brackets and check that every open parenthesis has a matching close.

Choose functions deliberately, because look-alikes cause silent errors. log and ln sit next to each other but use different bases; a square root and a cube root differ by the index; and the inverse trig keys (arcsin, arccos, arctan) undo the regular ones rather than giving a reciprocal. If a result looks an order of magnitude off, the function choice is the first thing to re-check. Reading the expression back to yourself in plain words usually surfaces the mismatch fast.

Finally, let the calculator carry full precision and round only at the end. If you copy an intermediate value, truncate it, and type it back in, those small errors compound across steps. Keep the running result in place, chain your operations, and round the single final figure to the precision your assignment or report requires. Treat the calculator as a check: work the problem by hand or in your head where you can, then confirm with the tool. When the two disagree, one of the four habits above is almost always the reason.

  • Check the DEG/RAD toggle before every trig calculation; a wrong angle mode is the single most common cause of bad trig answers.
  • Wrap numerators, denominators, and function arguments in their own parentheses so order of operations matches what you intend.
  • Use log for base-10 problems (decibels, pH, Richter scale) and ln for growth, decay, and calculus problems involving e.
  • Carry full precision through every step and round only the final answer to avoid accumulating rounding errors.

Read the full guide →

Tool by the Super Simple Digital Tools Team. Reviewed by our editorial team. Free to use, no signup required.

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